Rad strain ethusist system
Meant to identify the car or truck's radiator pertaining to leakages and how it can withstand both low and high outside temperature ranges, the actual rad strain ethusist package includes a lengthy air conduit, temperatures evaluate as well as rad truck tops. These truck tops may outfit nearly any domestic as well as importance automobile and may permit the auto mechanic to be able to press the actual air conduit on to just about any auto's rad during the analyze. Even though the auto technician transforms your button situated on the determine control to force a concentrated level of air to the radiator, your measure signifies no matter whether any kind of atmosphere is lost because of leak or even structurel injury.
IAC signal tester
Used for figuring out electronic digital handle component signals offering the right direction on the idle air-control engine about port gas treatment techniques, your IAC signal specialist can be used on a selection of GM as well as Ford cars. This kind of motor vehicle testing tool features a noid lighting on their outdoor evaluate that will whizzes on one occasion each time a indication is shipped into it suggesting that the injector as well as fuel product is inducing the automobile's difficulty, not really the actual electric powered system. Once this screening device can be used along with the noid lighting does not flash, the particular mechanic after that understands to determine the automobile's electrical method to identify the situation.
In-line key spark trialist
Designed to examination a good automobile's ignition with regard to spark situation in order that the automobile can begin with out are unsuccessful, the in-line ignition kindle trialist has a silicone deal with equipped using a extended metallic hook that suits over the automobile's electrical ignition. In the event the automobile's powerplant can be turn off, the automobile mechanic inserts your steel stop with the tester in to the auto's main kindle connect wire. Your engine is then commenced and also the lamp about the assessment instrument will certainly expensive when the key signal is finished. If your light will not thumb, the particular mechanic next knows that he has to restore your spark connect itself as well as consider the car's key method apart to find out exactly why the particular ignition is not doing work.
Battery pack weight specialist
As it is crucial for any car's battery pack being fully billed capable to take up a auto's motor, the battery load trialist safeguards an automobile's battery power ability is complete. This specific automobile screening tool is comprised of a little steel field prepared with two tiny wires about both sides in the package which can be fixed on top of the auto's battery power even though the auto just isn't running. The particular technician and then changes the car battery fill tester in and states the particular evaluate which is presented for the material package to determine just how much electrical power the auto battery will be outputting. If the present mentioned for the gauge is not high enough, the particular mechanic is aware either to restoration the actual battery's cords as well as whether or not to replace the electric battery completely. http://www.autelcn.com/
2013年6月10日星期一
2012年10月31日星期三
Why Mini Is Leading Choice As a Provider Automobile
When choosing a corporation vehicle, there are actually several selections available but the ideal choice in our view is MINI. It proves to be a right decision if a lot of the travelling is inside the city. Forget concerning the old MINS, although they had a design worth falling in enjoy with, but new style provides far more professional appear Professional diagnositic tools. LetâEUR(TM)s have a appear at main reasons for selecting a MINI. This is a fact that a large share of business is all about looking the part and this can be easily achieved when pulling up in a stylish new MINI. BMW has integrated all the modern features with some with the old characters of MINI. It has everything from power steering to a luxurious cabin. There are actually possibilities for Roasdster and Convertible models that will surely turn some heads. Just keep in mind regarding the great British Weather if going for a convertible variant.
Some of us might not say it but the old MINI wasnâEUR(TM)t the most reliable automobile there, but that is not the case with modern MINI. BMW now owns the MINI brand and that is enough to get an idea from the manufacturing quality it possess. MINI engine is very well built and designed. If regularly serviced and treated well there is not even tiny bit of a chance it will break down on the way to any important engagement.
If driving around the city, the main problem drivers face is lack of parking space, MINIâEUR(TM)s smaller size address this as it fits into those tight parking spots where normal Chelsea tractors or saloons cannot be parked. The small size compromises the boot space but this issue can be resolved as the boot space is increased on folding the rear seats. Boot space might not even be issue for most, it depends on the type of business and what tools are carried around while at work. But it should never be under estimated because of its smaller size as it is also a very smooth runner on the motorway.
No matter what is the kind of business, when picking out a organization vehicle, fuel efficiency is very important factor. The excellent economy of MINI makes it a leading selection. Deciding on the ideal model can return 74.3 miles per gallon (mpg). Even the bigger models, like MINI Clubman Cooper D provides an impressive 78.5 mpg when fitted with a right engine car diagnosis tool. MINI Coupe Cooper SD is the sports version of MINI, it offers a consumption of 72.4 mpg which is amazing for a 2.0-litre engine. These economy figures are enough to clear any last doubts why MINI shouldnâEUR(TM)t be the number one decision as a corporation car.
Some of us might not say it but the old MINI wasnâEUR(TM)t the most reliable automobile there, but that is not the case with modern MINI. BMW now owns the MINI brand and that is enough to get an idea from the manufacturing quality it possess. MINI engine is very well built and designed. If regularly serviced and treated well there is not even tiny bit of a chance it will break down on the way to any important engagement.
If driving around the city, the main problem drivers face is lack of parking space, MINIâEUR(TM)s smaller size address this as it fits into those tight parking spots where normal Chelsea tractors or saloons cannot be parked. The small size compromises the boot space but this issue can be resolved as the boot space is increased on folding the rear seats. Boot space might not even be issue for most, it depends on the type of business and what tools are carried around while at work. But it should never be under estimated because of its smaller size as it is also a very smooth runner on the motorway.
No matter what is the kind of business, when picking out a organization vehicle, fuel efficiency is very important factor. The excellent economy of MINI makes it a leading selection. Deciding on the ideal model can return 74.3 miles per gallon (mpg). Even the bigger models, like MINI Clubman Cooper D provides an impressive 78.5 mpg when fitted with a right engine car diagnosis tool. MINI Coupe Cooper SD is the sports version of MINI, it offers a consumption of 72.4 mpg which is amazing for a 2.0-litre engine. These economy figures are enough to clear any last doubts why MINI shouldnâEUR(TM)t be the number one decision as a corporation car.
2012年9月24日星期一
Tips on how to Reset the Honda Code
1
Find a port on the underside from the driver's side dash that is definitely the identical size and shape as the connective end with the diagnostic car tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.
2
Put the important in to the Honda's ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to crank the engine. This may energy on the scan tool.
3
Wait while the scan tool reads the codes. Uncover a command on the scan tool that says "Clear Codes" or something similar. When the main menu reappears, the codes have been cleared.
4
Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.
Find a port on the underside from the driver's side dash that is definitely the identical size and shape as the connective end with the diagnostic car tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.
2
Put the important in to the Honda's ignition and turn it to the "On" position, taking care not to crank the engine. This may energy on the scan tool.
3
Wait while the scan tool reads the codes. Uncover a command on the scan tool that says "Clear Codes" or something similar. When the main menu reappears, the codes have been cleared.
4
Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.
2012年8月12日星期日
Diagnosing an Engine Misfire
My name is David Gorth and I recently experienced an engine misfire problem which may of interest to some of the AutoTap users. To make a long story short, the PCM on my 1997 Chrysler Intrepid, 3.5L V6, reported a P0301 code through the AutoTap, which indicated a cylinder number 1 misfire. The troubleshooting process I went through to finally repair the problem was extensive. I have described it in detail below however, if you simply want to know the exact cause up front, it was a gasket failure between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. A vacuum leak, to be more precise, was the cause of my frustration.
Around mid January 2003, my problems began with the symptom of “a constant rough idle” with the transmission both in drive and neutral/park. This was also accompanied by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Check Engine light code of 43. As I own the Chrysler Service Manual for the vehicle, I was able to retrieve the code from the vehicle by simply counting the number of “Check Engine” light flashes. I knew I was in trouble at this point as the manual defined code 43 as a multiple engine misfire, a misfire in any one of the 6 cylinders, or a malfunction of any one of, or all 3 of the primary ignition coils. At this point I did not own the AutoTap 123 which would have made life much easier.
I decided to start with the “easy to check” items first. This meant changing the spark plugs, checking the resistance of all the spark plug wires and finally, checking the ignition coil primary and secondary circuits with an ohmmeter. All these components were found to be serviceable. I also visually verified that all the spark plugs were firing and made sure that none of the original spark plugs were fouled or discoloured. They all appeared normal with a brownish tint on the insulator. In my mind, I had pretty much ruled out the ignition system as the cause of the misfire but I wasn’t completely convinced.
After checking the ignition components, I was now quite sure that the MIL code 43 indicated a misfire rather than an ignition coil failure. The next area I decided to check was the fuel delivery system. A quick verification of the fuel pressure at the fuel rail indicated that the fuel system, up to the point of the fuel injectors, was working properly. I could therefore rule out the fuel filter, pump, regulator and seals as the cause of the misfire.
It was at this point that a new MIL code showed up. Code 24 (I still didn’t have the AutoTap) indicated that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal voltage was either too high or too low and/or the TPS signal did not correlate to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal. Now I was convinced that it either had to be the TPS or the MAP sensor that was causing my misfire. I checked the TPS input voltage as well as the idle and wide open throttle voltage output with a digital voltmeter. The TPS signals were within specification. At idle, I found the MAP sensor output voltage to be 0.2 volts below specification. I thought I had found the problem! I changed the MAP sensor (about $125 Cdn) and the vehicle did run a bit better, for a short while. To add to the confusion, following the MAP sensor replacement, I found that that the idle speed had increased from 700 rpm to approximately 850 rpm with the transmission in drive and up to 1300 rpm in park/neutral.
Around the end of January, I received my AutoTap 123. This was timely because after changing the MAP sensor and clearing the MIL codes (disconnected the battery), code 43 returned within 2 outings with the vehicle. The AutoTap reported Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) of P0300 (engine misfire) and P0301 (misfire detected in cylinder #1). That was the code I was looking for! I could now focus my attention on finding the cause of the #1 misfire.
I knew that the problem had to be caused by the ignition system, the fuel delivery system or something mechanical. I started with a double check of the ignition system. As the ignition coils for cylinders #1 and #4 fire at the same time, I swapped ignition wires and coil towers from cylinder #1 to #4. No improvement. That is, cylinder #4 continued to fire normally while cylinder #1 did not. I simply disconnected the spark plug wire boot from each of the spark plugs in turn. Engine rpm was not affected when cylinder #1 was disconnected. Conclusion, the ignition system was fine.
I then went back to the fuel delivery system. I checked the internal resistance of all the injectors as well as the voltage signal coming from the PCM to open the injectors. The #1 cylinder injector resistance and the signal voltage from the PCM were within specification and found to be similar to all the other injectors. The audible “click” from all the injectors was also present. I reasoned that if I did not find a mechanical cause for the misfire, the problem would most likely be caused by a dirty or blocked injector.
I them performed a compression test on the engine. The results indicated that cylinder #1 was sealing as well as all the others. I went as far as setting cylinder #1 at Top Dead Centre (TDC) and putting about 30 lbs of air pressure into the combustion chamber using a spark plug adapter. The idea was to listen for air escaping from the tail pipe (exhaust valve), the throttle bodies (intake valve) or the oil filler cap (rings). A small amount of air could be heard coming from the oil filler however, the same noise level was apparent from all other cylinders as well. Conclusion, the combustion chamber was sealing fine. The only other mechanical problems I could think of that would cause the misfire were either a worn camshaft lobe (unlikely – 130,000 kilometers) or a mis-timed camshaft sprocket. I verified that the timing belt was set properly.
Since I had ruled out the ignition system and knew that it was highly unlikely that I had a worn camshaft lobe, I decided to change the #1 cylinder injector. This was a time consuming job and parts were expensive. I replaced all the fuel rail O-rings and gaskets and cleaned out the 2 throttle bodies and made sure all vacuum hoses and electrical connectors were in good shape. I figured I had the problem beat this time! I was wrong. In fact, not only did I still have the cylinder #1misfire, but I also picked up a new one, MIL 25 or P1294 which is Target Idle Not Reached which means that the actual idle speed doesn’t meet the target idle speed. The idle speed was now up to approximately 950 rpm from 850 rpm with the transmission in drive and up to 1600 rpm from 1300 rpm in park/neutral.
I now believed that I had induced a vacuum leak somewhere when I removed the intake plenum. I was correct this time. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube, which is essentially a “Y” pipe coming from the EGR valve (positioned on the right side cylinder head) and connecting to both sides of the intake plenum, was leaking at the EGR valve. This allowed extra air to be drawn into the intake plenum. Not knowing it was only the gasket between the EGR valve and the Y pipe that was disturbed, I changed the complete EGR unit. Another $130 Cdn and about 3 hours to complete the work. The idle speed came back down to the 850 rpm and 1300 rpm numbers which was better however, I still had the cylinder #1 misfire!
At this point I was out of tricks. I swallowed my pride and took the vehicle to the Chrysler garage. For $95 they connected the PCM to their diagnostic tool and determined that I had a cylinder #1 misfire and that all the electronic components were operating within set parameters. They also determined that my Intrepid did not have the latest version of software from Chrysler installed in the PCM. For an additional $95, they updated the software (ie. the trip wasn’t a total loss). The next bit of news took me by surprise, they found a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket around cylinder #1. They used the “propane test” to find it. This means that they opened the valve on a simple shop propane torch, directed the gas toward the gasket area under suspicion and the idle rpm picked up substantially. Naturally the propane torch remained “unlit” throughout the test.
More features and functions, please visit our site and welcome to contact our customer-service for any help.http://www.kfzdiagnosegeraet.de/
Around mid January 2003, my problems began with the symptom of “a constant rough idle” with the transmission both in drive and neutral/park. This was also accompanied by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Check Engine light code of 43. As I own the Chrysler Service Manual for the vehicle, I was able to retrieve the code from the vehicle by simply counting the number of “Check Engine” light flashes. I knew I was in trouble at this point as the manual defined code 43 as a multiple engine misfire, a misfire in any one of the 6 cylinders, or a malfunction of any one of, or all 3 of the primary ignition coils. At this point I did not own the AutoTap 123 which would have made life much easier.
I decided to start with the “easy to check” items first. This meant changing the spark plugs, checking the resistance of all the spark plug wires and finally, checking the ignition coil primary and secondary circuits with an ohmmeter. All these components were found to be serviceable. I also visually verified that all the spark plugs were firing and made sure that none of the original spark plugs were fouled or discoloured. They all appeared normal with a brownish tint on the insulator. In my mind, I had pretty much ruled out the ignition system as the cause of the misfire but I wasn’t completely convinced.
After checking the ignition components, I was now quite sure that the MIL code 43 indicated a misfire rather than an ignition coil failure. The next area I decided to check was the fuel delivery system. A quick verification of the fuel pressure at the fuel rail indicated that the fuel system, up to the point of the fuel injectors, was working properly. I could therefore rule out the fuel filter, pump, regulator and seals as the cause of the misfire.
It was at this point that a new MIL code showed up. Code 24 (I still didn’t have the AutoTap) indicated that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal voltage was either too high or too low and/or the TPS signal did not correlate to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal. Now I was convinced that it either had to be the TPS or the MAP sensor that was causing my misfire. I checked the TPS input voltage as well as the idle and wide open throttle voltage output with a digital voltmeter. The TPS signals were within specification. At idle, I found the MAP sensor output voltage to be 0.2 volts below specification. I thought I had found the problem! I changed the MAP sensor (about $125 Cdn) and the vehicle did run a bit better, for a short while. To add to the confusion, following the MAP sensor replacement, I found that that the idle speed had increased from 700 rpm to approximately 850 rpm with the transmission in drive and up to 1300 rpm in park/neutral.
Around the end of January, I received my AutoTap 123. This was timely because after changing the MAP sensor and clearing the MIL codes (disconnected the battery), code 43 returned within 2 outings with the vehicle. The AutoTap reported Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) of P0300 (engine misfire) and P0301 (misfire detected in cylinder #1). That was the code I was looking for! I could now focus my attention on finding the cause of the #1 misfire.
I knew that the problem had to be caused by the ignition system, the fuel delivery system or something mechanical. I started with a double check of the ignition system. As the ignition coils for cylinders #1 and #4 fire at the same time, I swapped ignition wires and coil towers from cylinder #1 to #4. No improvement. That is, cylinder #4 continued to fire normally while cylinder #1 did not. I simply disconnected the spark plug wire boot from each of the spark plugs in turn. Engine rpm was not affected when cylinder #1 was disconnected. Conclusion, the ignition system was fine.
I then went back to the fuel delivery system. I checked the internal resistance of all the injectors as well as the voltage signal coming from the PCM to open the injectors. The #1 cylinder injector resistance and the signal voltage from the PCM were within specification and found to be similar to all the other injectors. The audible “click” from all the injectors was also present. I reasoned that if I did not find a mechanical cause for the misfire, the problem would most likely be caused by a dirty or blocked injector.
I them performed a compression test on the engine. The results indicated that cylinder #1 was sealing as well as all the others. I went as far as setting cylinder #1 at Top Dead Centre (TDC) and putting about 30 lbs of air pressure into the combustion chamber using a spark plug adapter. The idea was to listen for air escaping from the tail pipe (exhaust valve), the throttle bodies (intake valve) or the oil filler cap (rings). A small amount of air could be heard coming from the oil filler however, the same noise level was apparent from all other cylinders as well. Conclusion, the combustion chamber was sealing fine. The only other mechanical problems I could think of that would cause the misfire were either a worn camshaft lobe (unlikely – 130,000 kilometers) or a mis-timed camshaft sprocket. I verified that the timing belt was set properly.
Since I had ruled out the ignition system and knew that it was highly unlikely that I had a worn camshaft lobe, I decided to change the #1 cylinder injector. This was a time consuming job and parts were expensive. I replaced all the fuel rail O-rings and gaskets and cleaned out the 2 throttle bodies and made sure all vacuum hoses and electrical connectors were in good shape. I figured I had the problem beat this time! I was wrong. In fact, not only did I still have the cylinder #1misfire, but I also picked up a new one, MIL 25 or P1294 which is Target Idle Not Reached which means that the actual idle speed doesn’t meet the target idle speed. The idle speed was now up to approximately 950 rpm from 850 rpm with the transmission in drive and up to 1600 rpm from 1300 rpm in park/neutral.
I now believed that I had induced a vacuum leak somewhere when I removed the intake plenum. I was correct this time. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube, which is essentially a “Y” pipe coming from the EGR valve (positioned on the right side cylinder head) and connecting to both sides of the intake plenum, was leaking at the EGR valve. This allowed extra air to be drawn into the intake plenum. Not knowing it was only the gasket between the EGR valve and the Y pipe that was disturbed, I changed the complete EGR unit. Another $130 Cdn and about 3 hours to complete the work. The idle speed came back down to the 850 rpm and 1300 rpm numbers which was better however, I still had the cylinder #1 misfire!
At this point I was out of tricks. I swallowed my pride and took the vehicle to the Chrysler garage. For $95 they connected the PCM to their diagnostic tool and determined that I had a cylinder #1 misfire and that all the electronic components were operating within set parameters. They also determined that my Intrepid did not have the latest version of software from Chrysler installed in the PCM. For an additional $95, they updated the software (ie. the trip wasn’t a total loss). The next bit of news took me by surprise, they found a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket around cylinder #1. They used the “propane test” to find it. This means that they opened the valve on a simple shop propane torch, directed the gas toward the gasket area under suspicion and the idle rpm picked up substantially. Naturally the propane torch remained “unlit” throughout the test.
More features and functions, please visit our site and welcome to contact our customer-service for any help.http://www.kfzdiagnosegeraet.de/
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